When mixing things up with a variety of fruits in a pie, you have no better partner in the kitchen than a scale—particularly if you want to experiment beyond the suggestions below. If measuring with cups, stick to the listed ingredients, and take care not to pile the fruit too high. Whether you choose my blend or your own, the filling bakes up sweet-tart and a little jammy under a golden, flaky crust. WHY IT WORKS A blend of fruits unites sweet, sour, tender, and creamy elements in a single pie. Tapioca starch forms a light, clear gel that's never cloudy, slimy, or gloppy. A 4:1 ratio of fruit to sugar raises tapioca's gelatinization point so the filling and crust will cook at the same rate, meaning you never have to trade a thick filling for a soggy crust! SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 9-inch pie plate (preferably tempered-glass), pastry brush (if using egg wash), rimmed baking sheet, digital thermometer NOTES: This recipe works best with fruits similar to those listed below, rather than wildcards such as apples, figs, or melons. Due to disparate sourcing practices, tapioca starch manufactured in Asia may be derived from plants other than cassava, which have different gelling properties. Look for products that mention cassava by name on the packaging, such as Bob's Red Mill. INGREDIENTS 3 medium plums, apricots, or nectarines (about 12 ounces; 340g) 9 ounces pitted cherries (1 2/3 heaping cups; 255g), from about 12 ounces whole fruit (2 1/4 heaping cups; 340g) 6 ounces fresh blueberries, blackberries, or raspberries (1 cup; 170g) 4 ounces Cape gooseberries, currants, or fresh cranberries (1/2 cup; 110g) 7 ounces sugar (1 cup; 195g) 1/2 teaspoon (2g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or use the same weight 1 1/2 ounces tapioca starch (1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon; 40g), such as Bob's Red Mill (see note above) Old-Fashioned Flaky Pie Dough, rolled and chilled as per the directions for a double crust For the Egg Wash (optional): 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk 1/2 ounce heavy cream (1 tablespoon; 15g) 1/8 teaspoon (1/2g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or use the same weight DIRECTIONS 1. For the Filling: Wash plums (no need to peel), cut into 1/2-inch slices, and measure out 9 ounces (1 1/2 cups; 255g) in a large bowl. Add pitted cherries, blueberries, and Cape gooseberries, or whatever mix of fruit you prefer, to bring the total weight to 28 ounces (790g; volume will vary). Toss with sugar, salt, and tapioca starch, folding with a flexible spatula until well combined. Scrape into prepared pie shell and top with remaining dough, as a solid sheet, a lattice, a herringbone, or checkerboard. Trim away excess dough and refrigerate to ensure top crust is completely chilled, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 400°F. 2. For the Egg Wash (if using): Whisk egg, egg yolk, cream, and salt in a small bowl. Brush over chilled top crust in a thin, even layer. This will give the crust a glossy, golden sheen, but is not necessary in any way. 3. Place chilled pie on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake until crust is golden, about 1 hour, then loosely cover with tented foil. (Alternatively, an empty baking sheet can be placed on topmost rack of oven to serve as a shield.) Continue baking until filling is bubbling even in the very center of the pie, about 15 minutes more. If crust completely covers filling, bake until pie reaches an internal temperature of 212°F on a digital thermometer. 4. To Serve: Cool pie until center of filling is no warmer than 85°F on a digital thermometer, about 3 hours depending on the type of pie plate. (Above that temperature, filling will be runny and thin.) Slice into wedges with a sharp knife, pressing firmly against bottom and sides of pie plate to ensure under-crust is completely cut. Wrapped in foil, leftovers will keep up to 3 days at room temperature; warm 10 minutes in a 350°F oven to revive crust before serving.
The best desserts are a study in contrast. This recipe delivers at every turn, with a crisp, flaky crust encasing a rich and creamy dark chocolate custard, topped off with a light and fluffy vanilla meringue. Since there are a lot of moving parts to coordinate, I like to break the process into more manageable chunks by making the crust a day in advance, but it can certainly be tackled all in one go if you've got a nice stretch of time to spare. WHY IT WORKS Dutch cocoa and dark chocolate create a filling that's rich, thick, and intense. Holding the custard at a boil denatures a starch-dissolving enzyme found in egg yolks for a no-weep filling. Topping the custard while warm streamlines the cooling process while also making it easier to raise the core temperature of the meringue, but the exact timing is rather flexible. Browning at relatively low heat allows the meringue to dry instead of simply crusting over, making it fluffy, not gooey, inside. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 3-quart stainless steel saucier, balloon whisk, large fine-mesh sieve, wire rack, rimmed baking sheet, digital thermometer NOTES: The flavor of this pie hinges on Dutch cocoa powder—natural and raw cocoas are simply too acidic. Look for brands like Droste in grocery stores, or Cacao Barry Extra Brute online (ounce for ounce it's more affordable than any supermarket brand). INGREDIENTS Old-Fashioned Flaky Pie Dough, prepared as for a Blind Baked Pie For the Filling: 4 ounces 72% dark chocolate (3/4 cup; 115g), roughly chopped 1/4 ounces vanilla extract (1 1/2 teaspoons; 7g) 9 1/2 ounces sugar (1 1/3 cups; 270g) 3/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; use half as much if iodized 1/2 teaspoon espresso powder 1 1/2 ounces Dutch cocoa powder (1/2 cup; 45g) 1 1/4 ounces cornstarch (1/3 cup; 35g) 5 ounces egg yolk (shy 1/2 cup; 140g), from about 8 large eggs 24 ounces milk (3 cups; 680g), any percentage will do For the Topping: Swiss Meringue DIRECTIONS 1. For the Filling: Place chopped chocolate in a medium bowl, add vanilla, and suspend a large, single-mesh sieve over the top. Whisk sugar, salt, espresso powder, cocoa powder, and cornstarch together in a 3-quart stainless steel saucier. Add egg yolks and roughly 1/2 cup of the milk and whisk until smooth before adding the rest of the milk. Cook over medium-low, stirring gently with a whisk until hot to the touch; about 6 minutes. 2. Increase heat to medium and continue whisking gently until thick and bubbly, about 5 minutes (if it's not bubbling by then, feel free to crank up the heat). When you see that first bubble, set a timer and continue whisking exactly 90 seconds. Immediately pour into the sieve, pressing with a flexible spatula until custard passes through. Fold until chocolate has melted into the custard, and cover with a heavy towel. 3. For the Topping: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 375°F. Prepare Swiss Meringue as directed. Pour custard into the prepared crust, and dollop meringue over top. Gently spread it edge to edge with the back of a fork, using the tines to sculpt it into a pretty design. Place on a wire rack set inside a 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet and bake until well browned, about 15 minutes (this set-up minimizes heat transfer to the custard). 4. To Serve: Cool 1 hour at room temperature, then cover loosely in plastic and refrigerate to an internal temperature of 60°F, about 3 1/2 hours. Cut with a wet chef's knife, rinsing the blade clean with cold water between each slice. Wrapped in plastic, leftovers can be refrigerated up to a week.
