It's difficult to make good bread today, but it's darned easy to make hot, fresh, world-class bread tomorrow. This focaccia, topped with olives, rosemary, and pistachios, requires no kneading or stretching and results in a crisp, olive oil-scented crust and a puffy, moist, well-risen internal crumb with just the right amount of tender chew. The crux of it is a highly hydrated, no-knead, no-stretch dough. That's right. Zero kneading, zero stretching. It's just about the easiest bread you can imagine making. All it takes is a bit of time. WHY IT WORKS An overnight rest at room temperature precludes the need for any kneading. A high hydration dough spreads itself out into the pan before baking. Extremely high oven temperatures lead to better internal structure and a crust that crisps while the interior crumb stays moist. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 12-inch cast iron skillet INGREDIENTS 500 grams (17 1/2 ounces, about 3 1/4 cups) all-purpose or bread flour 15 grams (.5 ounces, about 1 tablespoon) kosher salt 4 grams (.15 ounces, about 1/2 teaspoon) instant yeast 325 grams (11 1/2 ounces, about 1 1/2 cups minus 1 tablespoon) water 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 ounces pitted green olives, sliced 1/4 cup roasted pistachios, roughly chopped or lightly pounded in a mortar and pestle 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, very roughly chopped Coarse sea salt DIRECTIONS 1. Combine flour, salt, yeast, and water in a large bowl. Mix with hands or a wooden spoon until no dry flour remains. The bowl should be at least 4 to 6 times the volume of the dough to account for rising. 2. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap, making sure that edges are well-sealed, then let rest on the countertop for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours. Dough should rise dramatically and fill bowl. 3. Sprinkle the top of the dough lightly with flour, then transfer it to a lightly-floured work surface. Form into a ball by holding it with well-floured hands and tucking the dough underneath itself, rotating it until it forms a tight ball. 4. Pour half of oil in the bottom of a 12-inch cast iron skillet or large cake pan. Transfer dough to pan, turn to coat in oil, and position seam-side-down. Using a flat palm, press the dough around the skillet, flattening it slightly and spreading oil around the entire bottom and edges of the pan. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let the dough stand at room temperature for 2 hours. After the first hour, adjust an oven rack to the middle position and preheat oven to 550°F. 5. At the end of the 2 hours, dough should mostly fill the skillet up to the edge. Use your fingertips to press it around until it fills every corner, popping any large bubbles that appear. Lift up one edge of the dough to let any air bubbles underneath escape and repeat, moving around the dough until there are no air bubbles left underneath and the dough is evenly spread around the skillet. Spread olives and pistachios all over the surface of the dough and press down on them with your fingertips to embed slightly. Drizzle with remaining olive oil. Sprinkle with rosemary and coarse salt. 6. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until top is golden brown and bubbly and bottom is golden brown and crisp when you lift it with a thin spatula, 16 to 24 minutes. Using a thin spatula, loosen focaccia and peek underneath. If bottom is not as crisp as desired, place pan on a burner and cook over medium heat, moving the pan around to cook evenly until it is crisp, 1 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, allow to cool slightly, slice, and serve. Extra bread should be stored in a brown paper bag at room temperature for up to 2 days. Reheat in a 300°F oven for about 10 minutes before serving.
Offering maximum impact with minimal effort, a baked Brie turns a mild-mannered cheese into the superhero of a gathering: a warm, gooey communal comfort food. This version wraps the cheese in a shell of flaky puff pastry, along with two sweet-tart layers of apple-pear compote. WHY IT WORKS Pairing the creamy cheese with a combination of tart and sweet gives it the ideal flavor balance. Adding a puff pastry crust is an easy way to create an impressive party appetizer. Triple-cream cheese gives you the best gooey melt. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: Rimmed baking sheet, parchment paper, rolling pin, pastry brush, kitchen twine (optional) NOTES: If possible, use a triple-cream Brie, which has a higher fat content that melts better. INGREDIENTS 1 tablespoon (15g) unsalted butter 1 apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice 1 pear, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice 1/4 cup (60g) sugar 1 small cinnamon stick (or 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon) 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 (6- to 8-ounce; 170 to 225g) round Brie or Camembert cheese, slightly chilled (see note) All-purpose flour, for dusting 10-inch square puff pastry dough, kept cold, rolled out to 1/4-inch thickness 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon (15ml) water DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat a medium saucepan over medium heat, add butter, and swirl until melted. Add apple and pear and cook, stirring occasionally, until fruit is tender and has released most of its liquid, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in sugar, cinnamon stick or ground cinnamon, ginger, and cardamom and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated, 12 to 15 minutes longer. Discard cinnamon stick, if used. Remove from heat and let compote cool to room temperature. 2. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 3. Using a sharp knife, cut cheese in half horizontally (through the middle). Lay one half on a work surface, cut side up, and spread 3 tablespoons (45ml) of compote evenly over it. Place second half on top and spread another 3 tablespoons (45ml) compote over it. 4. Place puff pastry on a lightly floured work surface and roll to an even 1/4-inch thickness. Set prepared cheese in center of square, fold dough up and over, and pleat it together on top to enclose cheese. Gently pinch dough together in center to seal gathered pleats. You can tie a bit of kitchen twine on top to hold pleats together if you like, but this is not essential. If dough is no longer cold, chill wrapped cheese for at least 20 minutes. (Cheese can be wrapped tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated until ready to bake.) 5. Set prepared cheese wheel on prepared baking sheet. Brush dough evenly with egg wash. Bake until pastry is crisp and golden brown all over, 25 to 35 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes, then transfer to a platter. Serve any remaining compote alongside.
Many of the best salads bring together a wide variety of ingredients, each with its own distinct textures and flavors. But sometimes it's fun to play with a single ingredient, using more than one technique to bring out different qualities in it. Such is the case in this shredded Brussels sprout salad, in which half the sprouts are shredded and left raw and the other half tossed with salt until soft and wilted. Together, they're much greater than the sum of their parts. WHY IT WORKS Salt-wilting half the Brussels sprouts softens them for a more tender texture; leaving the other half raw helps the salad retain some of their original sturdy crispness. Toasting skin-on hazelnuts just until the skins take on a light wood-smoke aroma adds depth and complexity to the salad. Tangerine juice and zest lightly infuse the salad, adding plenty of wintry personality. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: Mandoline slicer INGREDIENTS 1 3/4 pounds (800g) Brussels sprouts, trimmed and thinly shredded on a mandoline, divided 2 teaspoons (8g) kosher salt, plus more to taste 1 tangerine (about 5 ounces; 150g) 1/2 medium shallot (about 3 ounces; 90g), minced 1 teaspoon (5ml) Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons (30ml) white wine vinegar 6 tablespoons (90ml) extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper 3/4 cup (170g) skin-on hazelnuts 4 ounces (115g) fresh goat cheese, crumbled DIRECTIONS 1. In a medium mixing bowl, toss half the shredded Brussels sprouts with the 2 teaspoons salt. Knead and squeeze salted sprouts, softening them and releasing their liquid, about 2 minutes. Juice tangerine, reserving half of peel for zesting later, and add juice to salted sprouts. Toss to coat, cover, then transfer to the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes and up to 4 hours. 2. In a small bowl, combine shallot, Dijon, vinegar, and the finely grated zest of reserved tangerine peel. Whisk in olive oil, season with salt and pepper, then set aside. 3. In a small skillet, toast hazelnuts over medium-high heat, stirring and shaking pan constantly, until skins are just beginning to take on a light roasted, campfire smell (being careful not to burn them or darken them to the point of developing an unpleasant flavor), about 4 minutes. Let cool slightly. Transfer nuts to a zipper-lock bag, then gently crush under the weight of a heavy pan or skillet to form large broken chunks. 4. Remove salted sprouts from refrigerator. Knead and squeeze once more, then drain and squeeze well to remove any excess moisture. Transfer to a serving bowl. Toss with remaining shredded raw Brussels sprouts and toasted hazelnuts. Whisk dressing, then drizzle all over salad. (Add just enough dressing to lightly coat everything in the salad bowl; you may have a small amount left over.) Season with salt and pepper, then add crumbled goat cheese, toss gently to combine, and serve right away.
Spinach and ricotta manicotti is one of those dishes that are edible—dare I say, enjoyable—even under the most inauspicious of circumstances (think: cafeteria steam tables). So how great would it be if you optimized every ingredient and served it fresh from the oven? WHY IT WORKS Using fresh pasta sheets instead of dried manicotti shells makes for easier stuffing and better texture. Combining the spinach with arugula and draining it very well gives the filling more flavor. Drying the ricotta on towels before combining it with the spinach ensures that the filling doesn't become too watery as it bakes. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 9- by 13-inch baking dish, salad spinner NOTES: Look for ricotta cheese that contains no gums or thickeners. The ingredients should include only milk, salt, and either vinegar or a starter culture. Our favorite widely available brand is Calabro. INGREDIENTS 1 pound (450g) high-quality ricotta cheese (see note above) Kosher salt 1 pound fresh homemade or store-bought lasagna noodles, cut into twelve 4- by 4-inch squares, or 6 sheets no-boil dry lasagna noodles 8 ounces (225g) fresh spinach, washed 8 ounces (225g) fresh arugula, washed 12 ounces (340g) shredded low-moisture mozzarella cheese, divided 4 ounces (120g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided 1 large egg 1 medium clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg Freshly ground black pepper 2 cups (480ml) tomato sauce, such as Quick and Easy Italian-American Red Sauce, Slow-Cooked Tomato Sauce, or Fresh Tomato Sauce, divided Small handful minced fresh parsley or basil leaves DIRECTIONS 1. Adjust oven rack to center position and preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a large plate or a rimmed baking sheet with a triple layer of paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Spread ricotta on top and cover with more paper towels or another clean kitchen towel. Let drain for 5 minutes, then remove towels and transfer ricotta to a large bowl. (You may need to use a spatula to scrape all of the ricotta off the towels.) Set aside. 2. If Using Fresh Pasta: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches, add pasta squares to boiling water, 6 at a time. Cook for 30 seconds, then, using tongs, transfer to a clean kitchen towel to drain, laying them out in a single layer. Repeat until all pasta squares are cooked, reserving boiling water for step 4. Set aside, keeping squares separated from each other. Continue with step 4. 3. If Using No-Boil Lasagna Noodles: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Place noodles in a 9- by 13-inch casserole dish. Using a ladle, transfer just enough boiling water from the pot to cover noodles. (Keep remaining boiling water to boil spinach and arugula in step 4, adding more if water level gets too low.) Let pasta sit, agitating occasionally, until pliable but not mushy, about 5 minutes. Drain pasta, then dry on a clean kitchen towel. Cut each noodle in half crosswise to make twelve 4- by 4-inch squares of pasta. Set aside, keeping them separated from each other to avoid sticking. Wipe casserole dish dry. 4. Add spinach and arugula to boiling water and cook just until wilted, about 20 seconds. Drain greens into the bowl of a salad spinner set in the sink. Run under cold water until thoroughly chilled, then spin in salad spinner to dry. 5. Spread greens over a clean kitchen towel or a double layer of paper towels and roll into a tight tube, pressing to remove excess moisture. Transfer to a cutting board and roughly chop. 6. Add greens to bowl with ricotta. Add half of mozzarella, half of Parmesan, egg, garlic, and nutmeg. Season with a large pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper, then fold with a wooden spoon or spatula to combine. 7. Spread half of tomato sauce in an even layer in casserole dish. Working with 1 square of pasta at a time, place a few tablespoons of ricotta mixture in a row along the center of the square, then roll it up. Place roll, seam side down, in casserole dish. Continue until all of pasta and filling are used up. 8. Spoon remaining sauce over manicotti, keeping it tidy along the center of each row of rolls. Sprinkle remaining mozzarella cheese over sauce. Sprinkle all over with remaining Parmesan. Cover tightly with foil. 9. Place in oven and bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until cheese is well browned and bubbly, about 15 minutes longer. Remove from oven and let rest for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley or basil and serve. 10. Manicotti can be prepared through step 8 and refrigerated for up to 3 days before baking. Bake as directed in step 9.
The secret to great zucchini pizza is to remove as much liquid from the zucchini as possible before topping the pizza. Our technique gives you a nice crunch along with fresh, sweet, caramelized zucchini flavor. WHY IT WORKS A zucchini pizza that really works. Salting the zucchini and squeezing it rids it of the excess moisture that can lead to a watery pizza. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: wood and metal pizza peels, Baking Steel, pizza cutter (see note above) NOTES: For best results, bake pizza using a KettlePizza and Baking Steel setup. INGREDIENTS 1 recipe Neapolitan Pizza Dough, or 2 pounds store-bought pizza dough 1 large zucchini (about 12 ounces), thinly sliced and cut into 1/4-inch-thick matchsticks 8 medium cloves garlic (2 minced, 6 thinly sliced), divided 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling 1 pound fresh mozzarella, torn into rough chunks and drained 1 lemon, very thinly sliced, seeds removed 8 ounces goat or sheep's milk feta cheese, roughly crumbled into 1/2-inch pieces 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling, divided 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and light green parts only DIRECTIONS 1. Divide dough into four equal parts and place each in a covered quart-sized deli container or in a zipper-lock freezer bag. Allow to rest at room temperature for at least 2 hours before baking. 2. Combine zucchini and minced garlic in a medium bowl. Add 1 teaspoon kosher salt and toss to coat. Transfer to a strainer and set over the bowl. Let rest for 30 minutes. Squeeze zucchini with your hands to remove all excess moisture. Transfer zucchini to a paper towel–lined plate and set aside until ready to use. 3. Adjust oven rack to 6 inches under broiler and place stone or steel on rack. Preheat oven to highest possible temperature (500 or 550°F) for at least 45 minutes. Alternatively, use a KettlePizza and Baking Steel grill insert. 4. When ready to bake, turn one dough ball out onto a lightly floured surface. Gently press out dough into a rough 8-inch circle, leaving the outer 1 inch higher than the center. Gently stretch dough into a 10- to 12-inch circle, about 1/4 inch thick, by draping over knuckles and gently stretching. Transfer to floured wooden pizza peel. 5. Preheat broiler to high. Spread 1/4 of mozzarella over pizza, followed by a few lemon rings, 1/4 of zucchini, 1/4 of feta, and 1/4 of thinly sliced garlic. Sprinkle lightly with salt and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. 6. Transfer pizza to hot stone or steel and broil, rotating regularly for even cooking, until edges are puffed and lightly charred and bottom is crisp, 3 to 6 minutes total. Retrieve pizza with a metal peel and transfer to a cutting board. Allow to rest 1 minute. Meanwhile, switch oven back to 550°F to reheat stone for remaining pizzas. 7. Sprinkle with scallions, slice, and serve immediately. 8. Repeat steps 4 through 7 for remaining pizzas.
