Monday, February 13, 2017

Easy No-Knead Olive-Rosemary Focaccia With Pistachios Recipe

It's difficult to make good bread today, but it's darned easy to make hot, fresh, world-class bread tomorrow. This focaccia, topped with olives, rosemary, and pistachios, requires no kneading or stretching and results in a crisp, olive oil-scented crust and a puffy, moist, well-risen internal crumb with just the right amount of tender chew. The crux of it is a highly hydrated, no-knead, no-stretch dough. That's right. Zero kneading, zero stretching. It's just about the easiest bread you can imagine making. All it takes is a bit of time.

WHY IT WORKS

An overnight rest at room temperature precludes the need for any kneading.
A high hydration dough spreads itself out into the pan before baking.
Extremely high oven temperatures lead to better internal structure and a crust that crisps while the interior crumb stays moist.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
12-inch cast iron skillet
INGREDIENTS
500 grams (17 1/2 ounces, about 3 1/4 cups) all-purpose or bread flour
15 grams (.5 ounces, about 1 tablespoon) kosher salt
4 grams (.15 ounces, about 1/2 teaspoon) instant yeast
325 grams (11 1/2 ounces, about 1 1/2 cups minus 1 tablespoon) water
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 ounces pitted green olives, sliced
1/4 cup roasted pistachios, roughly chopped or lightly pounded in a mortar and pestle
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, very roughly chopped
Coarse sea salt
DIRECTIONS
1.
Combine flour, salt, yeast, and water in a large bowl. Mix with hands or a wooden spoon until no dry flour remains. The bowl should be at least 4 to 6 times the volume of the dough to account for rising.

2.
Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap, making sure that edges are well-sealed, then let rest on the countertop for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours. Dough should rise dramatically and fill bowl.

3.
Sprinkle the top of the dough lightly with flour, then transfer it to a lightly-floured work surface. Form into a ball by holding it with well-floured hands and tucking the dough underneath itself, rotating it until it forms a tight ball.

4.
Pour half of oil in the bottom of a 12-inch cast iron skillet or large cake pan. Transfer dough to pan, turn to coat in oil, and position seam-side-down. Using a flat palm, press the dough around the skillet, flattening it slightly and spreading oil around the entire bottom and edges of the pan. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let the dough stand at room temperature for 2 hours. After the first hour, adjust an oven rack to the middle position and preheat oven to 550°F.

5.
At the end of the 2 hours, dough should mostly fill the skillet up to the edge. Use your fingertips to press it around until it fills every corner, popping any large bubbles that appear. Lift up one edge of the dough to let any air bubbles underneath escape and repeat, moving around the dough until there are no air bubbles left underneath and the dough is evenly spread around the skillet. Spread olives and pistachios all over the surface of the dough and press down on them with your fingertips to embed slightly. Drizzle with remaining olive oil. Sprinkle with rosemary and coarse salt.

6.
Transfer skillet to oven and bake until top is golden brown and bubbly and bottom is golden brown and crisp when you lift it with a thin spatula, 16 to 24 minutes. Using a thin spatula, loosen focaccia and peek underneath. If bottom is not as crisp as desired, place pan on a burner and cook over medium heat, moving the pan around to cook evenly until it is crisp, 1 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, allow to cool slightly, slice, and serve. Extra bread should be stored in a brown paper bag at room temperature for up to 2 days. Reheat in a 300°F oven for about 10 minutes before serving.
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Seafood-Stuffed Shells Recipe

These rich stuffed shells are packed with a mixture of crabmeat, shrimp, and scallops, then baked with a creamy sauce and golden, buttery bread crumbs. It's like a crab cake stuffed into pasta.

WHY IT WORKS
Slightly undercooking the pasta during boiling ensures that it stays al dente during baking.
The light béchamel looks too loose at first, but it thickens up as it bakes.
Poaching the shrimp directly in the pasta water pot makes cleanup easier.
Panko bread crumbs add extra crunch and texture.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
9- by 13-inch baking dish
NOTES:
You will need about 18 shells total, but it's a good idea to cook extra to account for any that tear or break; half a 12-ounce box of jumbo shells should yield about 25. If you want, you can substitute the scallops with an equal quantity of additional shrimp.
INGREDIENTS
Kosher salt
6 ounces dry jumbo pasta shells (about 25 shells; 170g) (see note)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling and greasing the baking dish
8 ounces (225g) peeled and deveined shrimp
1 pound (450g) lump crabmeat, picked over for shells
8 ounces (225g) dry-packed sea scallops, cut into small pieces (see note)
2 tablespoons (30ml) Dijon mustard
1/2 cup (120ml) mayonnaise
Dash of Old Bay seasoning
1 medium shallot (about 2 ounces; 60g), minced
Small handful minced flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish
Freshly ground black pepper
3 1/2 tablespoons (50g) unsalted butter, divided
1 1/2 tablespoons (12g) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups (360ml) milk
1 bay leaf
1 cup panko bread crumbs (about 3 1/2 ounces; 100g)
DIRECTIONS
1.
Preheat oven to 325°F (163°C) and set rack to middle position. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook shells according to package instructions for baked shells. (Many packages of jumbo shells will give a specific boiling time for dishes that are to be subsequently baked; if yours does not, cook shells for 3 minutes less than the package's recommended cooking time.) Using a spider, slotted spoon, or mesh strainer, carefully transfer shells to a large bowl of cold water until cooled slightly, then drain. (Reserve pasta-cooking water for next step.) Drizzle shells very lightly with oil and toss to coat. Set aside.

2.
Fill a large bowl with ice water. Poach shrimp in same pot of pasta water until just barely cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain, chill in ice bath, then drain again. Chop shrimp into small pieces.

3.
In a mixing bowl, combine crabmeat with shrimp, scallops, Dijon, mayo, Old Bay, shallot, and parsley. Mix well and season with salt and pepper.

4.
In a small saucepan, melt 1 1/2 tablespoons (20g) butter over medium-high heat (do not allow it to brown). Add flour and whisk to form a paste. Continue to cook, stirring, until raw flour scent is gone, about 1 minute. Whisking constantly, add milk in a thin, steady stream, or in increments of a couple of tablespoons at a time, whisking thoroughly and getting into all corners of pan to maintain a homogeneous texture. The sauce will initially be very thick, then get very thin once all the milk is added. Add bay leaf.

5.
Heat, stirring, until sauce comes to a simmer and begins to thicken slightly. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring, until sauce is thick enough to lightly coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Discard bay leaf.
6.
Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch baking dish with oil. Spread 1/2 cup (120ml) béchamel sauce in an even layer on bottom of baking dish. Using a spoon, fill a shell with a large scoop of seafood mixture and place in baking dish with the opening side up. Repeat until baking dish is full. (You should be able to fit about 18 stuffed shells in the dish, and may have a few pasta shells left over.)

7.
Spoon remaining 1 cup (240ml) béchamel sauce on top of shells. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons (30g) butter and toss with bread crumbs in a small bowl; season with salt. Sprinkle bread crumbs all over shells.

8.
Bake shells until heated through, about 25 minutes. Switch oven to broiler setting and, watching very closely to prevent burning, broil until bread crumbs turn golden on top, rotating baking dish occasionally for even browning. Scatter minced parsley on top for garnish and serve.

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Pozole Verde de Pollo (Green Mexican Hominy and Chicken Soup) Recipe

If you've ever cooked that great Rick Bayless recipe for pozole verde, the Mexican meat and hominy soup flavored with green chilies and tomatillos, you'd know that it's a beast. The truth is, unless you've got the day off, cooking pozole on a Thursday is nothing more than a sueño imposible. My goal was to come up with a recipe that is not only delicious, but fast enough that it can reasonably be made on a Thursday night. The recipe I came up with may or may not be authentic, but it sure as heck is delicious.
WHY IT WORK 
Streamlining multi-day, multi-pot traditional pozole recipes into a single Dutch oven makes this recipe doable on a weeknight.
Searing the green salsa adds depth to its flavor.
Pumpkin seeds add nutty flavor and a creamy texture.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Dutch oven, blender
NOTES:
You can use dried hominy in place of canned. Soak dried hominy in water overnight. Drain and cook in fresh water at a gentle simmer until tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Drain and use as directed. 
INGREDIENTS
For the Soup:
3 ounces pumpkin seeds (85g; about 1/2 cup)
2 1/2 pounds bone-in chicken leg quarters (1.2kg; about 3 leg quarters)
1 pound tomatillos (450g)
1 large white onion, roughly chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, stems and seeds removed, roughly chopped
1 poblano pepper, stems and seeds removed, roughly chopped
1 Anaheim pepper, stems and seeds removed, roughly chopped
6 cups homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock (1.5 liters)
2 tablespoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican (about 8g)
2 sprigs epazote (optional)
Salt
Handful fresh cilantro leaves and fine stems
1 (28-ounce; 800g) can white hominy, drained (see note)
To Serve:
Diced avocado
Diced radishes
Thinly sliced serrano or jalapeño peppers
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Finely chopped white onion
DIRECTIONS
1.
For the Soup: Heat pumpkin seeds in the base of a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until they start to pop and smell nutty, about 4 minutes. Transfer pumpkin seeds to a bowl and set aside.

2.
Add chicken, tomatillos, onion, peppers, chicken stock, oregano, epazote (if using), and a large pinch of salt to the Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high heat then reduce to a bare simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until chicken and vegetables are completely tender, about 40 minutes.

3.
Using tongs, transfer chicken to a large plate or bowl and set aside. Discard epazote sprigs (if using). Set a large fine mesh strainer over a large bowl and strain the broth through it. Transfer solids to the jar of a blender. Add pumpkin seeds and cilantro to the blender. Blend on high speed until smooth. Set aside.

4.
Using a ladle, carefully skim off a few tablespoons of fat from the strained stock and add it to the Dutch oven (it's okay if a little stock gets in as well). Heat over high heat, swirling and stirring until the watery stock completely evaporates and starts to form a browned layer in the bottom of the pan. (It will spatter a bit. The more you stir, the less it will spatter.) As soon as the chicken fat starts to smoke, pour in the contents of the blender all at once and cook, stirring, for about 15 seconds (it will spatter a lot—wear an apron!). Immediately pour in strained chicken stock and fat and stir to combine. Bring to a bare simmer, stir in hominy, season to taste with salt, and keep warm.

5.
By this stage, the chicken should be cool enough to handle. Discard the skin and bones and shred the meat into bite-sized pieces with your fingertips. Stir the picked chicken back into the soup.

6.
To Serve: Ladle the hot soup into bowls and garnish with diced avocado and radish, sliced chilies, chopped cilantro, and chopped white onion. Serve immediately.

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Mini Pineapple-Teriyaki-Glazed Salmon Burgers With Avocado Recipe

These miniature salmon burgers are proof that big flavors come in small packages. Fresh salmon in a pineapple-teriyaki glaze, seared pineapple slices, lightly mashed avocado, and peppery watercress make them the perfect sweet and savory summer sandwiches.

WHY IT WORKS
Mayonnaise folded into the salmon patties helps keep them moist.
The thick glaze that forms after plenty of reduction time provides an amazing coating for the patties.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
food processor, parchment paper, baking sheet, pastry brush, instant-read thermometer
NOTES:
Make sure to use a large pot to make the glaze. While this might seem excessive, the glaze boils up significantly, so using a bigger pot will help you avoid boil-overs.
INGREDIENTS
For the Glaze:
2 cups light brown sugar
1 1/2 cups pineapple juice
1 cup water
1/2 cup homemade or store-bought teriyaki sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 small white onion, finely minced
4 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons peeled fresh ginger, minced
For the Salmon Patties:
1 1/2 pounds fresh, raw salmon, skin and bones removed, divided
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 scallions, white and light green parts only, chopped
To Cook and Serve:
2 Hass avocados, pitted and peeled
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons vegetable or canola oil, divided
6 fresh pineapple rings, quartered
Freshly ground black pepper
12 Hawaiian-style rolls, toasted
1 1/2 cups fresh watercress
DIRECTIONS
1.
For the Glaze: In a large pot, stir together brown sugar, pineapple juice, water, teriyaki sauce, and soy sauce over medium heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Bring to a full boil, then lower heat to a vigorous simmer. Stir in the rice vinegar, onion, garlic, and ginger. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half and syrupy, about 30 minutes. (If the glaze seems to climb the pot and you’re at risk of it boiling over, the heat is too high. Reduce the heat until you have small, consistent bubbles that don't threaten to escape the pot.) Set aside to cool.

2.
Meanwhile, for the Salmon Patties: Chop salmon into 1-inch cubes and place half in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until only small pieces remain (about 5 pulses), then add mayonnaise and remaining salmon. Continue to pulse until well distributed, with some larger chunks of salmon remaining. You do not want a paste, but you want to be able to mold the mixture into patties.

3.
Scrape salmon mixture into a bowl, mix in scallions, then form into 12 evenly sized patties. Set the patties on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet and refrigerate until ready to cook.

4.
To Cook and Serve: In a small bowl, gently mash the avocado with a spoon. Season lightly with salt and set aside.

5.
Add 2 teaspoons oil to a medium skillet and set over medium heat until shimmering. Add pineapple rings, brush top side with glaze, then turn and brush other side with glaze. Cook, turning and applying more glaze, until lightly caramelized. Remove pineapple from skillet and set aside.
6.
Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to skillet and set over medium-high heat until shimmering. Season salmon patties with salt and pepper, then cook in batches until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Brush liberally with glaze and cook for 1 minute longer on each side, applying more glaze when you flip the patties. Reduce heat to low and continue to cook, turning and brushing with glaze, until salmon burgers are medium-rare (115°F on an instant-read thermometer) or medium (125°F), about 2 minutes longer.

7.
Assemble burgers in this order: bottom bun, watercress, salmon patty, mashed avocado, glazed pineapple, top bun. Serve warm.
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Fizzy Strawberry Pisco Punch Recipe


This punch, from Zac Overman of Sitka & Spruce in Seattle, is mouthwateringly tart and slightly fizzy, juicy and a little herbal, thanks to fresh strawberries, thyme, and Bonal, a flavorful French aperitif that's bittered with cinchona and gentian. It's easy to batch up the punch mix in advance, then combine it with Cava, Crémant, or another dry sparkling wine in each serving glass.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Small lidded pitcher or quart-size Mason jar, fine-mesh strainer, Collins glasses for serving
INGREDIENTS
For the Strawberry-Thyme Syrup:
1 cup (240ml) water
1 cup (195g) sugar
1/2 cup quartered strawberries (about 5 to 6 small berries; 65g)
7 sprigs fresh thyme
For the Punch Mix:
4 ounces (120ml) Strawberry-Thyme Syrup
6 ounces (180ml) pisco (such as Barsol)
6 ounces (180ml) Bonal
6 ounces (180ml) fresh juice from 4 lemons
To Serve:
1 (750ml) bottle dry sparkling wine, chilled
DIRECTIONS
1.
For the Strawberry-Thyme Syrup: Add water, sugar, strawberries, and thyme to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Simmer 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer to remove solids. Let cool before using. Syrup can be refrigerated up to 1 week.

2.
For the Punch Mix: Combine Strawberry-Thyme Syrup, pisco, Bonal, and lemon in a small lidded pitcher or quart-size Mason jar. (You will have 22 ounces of the punch mix.) Stir to combine. At this point, mix can be used immediately or covered and refrigerated up to 10 hours. Extra Strawberry-Thyme Syrup can be served with seltzer for a nonalcoholic drink.

3.
To Serve: Fill each Collins glass with ice. Add 3 ounces sparkling wine and 2 3/4 ounces punch mix to each glass and stir gently. Serve immediately.

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Chocolate Cherry Layer Cake Recipe

If you love chocolate-covered cherries, this festive layer cake is just for you. With tart cherry juice in the batter and freeze-dried cherries in the whipped cream frosting, it's a bright and fruity twist on an otherwise classic chocolate cake. The flavor of the cake itself depends on rich, full-flavored cocoa powder, whether natural or Dutch-process. I recommend either Valrhona or Cacao Barry Extra Brute, both of which have twice the cocoa butter of the most popular supermarket brand.
WHY IT WORKS
Tart cherry juice brings out chocolate's fruitier qualities, while its acidity reacts with baking soda to help the cake rise.
Aromatic ingredients, like cinnamon, vanilla, and almond, amplify the cherry flavor.
Neutral oils like safflower simplify the cake's flavor, putting the focus on chocolate.
Fruity whipped cream makes a simple but festive frosting.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Stand mixer, two 8-inch by 2- or 3-inch anodized aluminum cake pans, food processor, serrated knife, cast iron turntable (optional), offset spatula
NOTES:
This recipe works well with many different combinations of tart juice and freeze-dried fruit, so don't be afraid to branch out if you can't find (or don't like) cherry. Tart fruits, like black currant, blueberry, and cranberry, pair well with chocolate, so look for them in juiced and freeze-dried form.
INGREDIENTS
For the Cakes:
6 ounces all-purpose flour (about 1 1/4 cups; 170g)
4 ounces good-quality cocoa powder, natural or Dutch-process (about 1 1/3 cups; 115g)
8 ounces sugar (about 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons; 225g)
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon (1g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or use the same weight
2 teaspoons (10ml) pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
4 large eggs, straight from the fridge
9 ounces neutral oil, such as safflower or sunflower (1 1/3 cups; 255g)
10 ounces pure, unsweetened tart cherry juice (1 1/4 cups; 285g) (see note)
For the Cherry Whipped Cream:
2 ounces freeze-dried cherries (about 1 cup; 55g), plus more for garnishing (see note)
3 1/2 ounces sugar (about 1/2 cup; 100g)
24 ounces heavy cream (3 cups; 680g)
DIRECTIONS
1.
For the Cakes: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). Meanwhile, line two 8-inch anodized aluminum cake pans with parchment and grease lightly. Sift flour and cocoa together to combine. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, combine sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, salt, vanilla extract, almond extract, and eggs. Whip on medium-high until foamy and light, about 5 minutes, then drizzle in oil. Reduce speed to low and add tart cherry juice, followed by sifted flour/cocoa mixture. When mixture is well combined, divide between prepared cake pans, adding about 22 ounces (620g) to each. Bake until puffed and firm, about 25 minutes; a toothpick inserted into the center of a cake will leave a few crumbs attached. Cool cakes in their pans until no trace of warmth remains, about 45 minutes.

2.
For the Cherry Whipped Cream: In the bowl of a food processor, grind freeze-dried fruit and sugar until powdery and fine, about 90 seconds. Add cream and stir with a fork to ensure no dry pockets of sugar/fruit are stuck in the corners, then process until thick and creamy like Greek yogurt, about 5 minutes. The time will vary with the horsepower of your machine, so watch it like a hawk to avoid making fruity butter by mistake. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until needed.

3.
To Assemble the Cake: Using a serrated bread knife, trim the dome from each cake so that the layers stack neatly and can absorb moisture from the cream. Place 1 cake (cut side up) on a serving plate, cake stand, or cast iron turntable. Top with 1 cup cherry whipped cream and spread into an even layer with an offset spatula. Place second cake (cut side down) on top. Smooth cream around sides, then wipe spatula clean. Spread another cup of cherry whipped cream in an even layer on top of cake, then use remaining whipped cream to generously cover sides and decorate by swirling cream with the back of a spoon. If you like, sprinkle with freeze-dried cherries just before serving.

4.
Under a cake dome or loosely wrapped in plastic, the cake will keep up to 24 hours at room temperature. Alternatively, the cake can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated up to 3 days, then brought to room temperature to serve.
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Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Homemade Bagel Bites Recipe

If you can't understand the allure of made-from-scratch Bagel Bites, there's nothing I can say or do to convince you. This is a recipe for the hardcore fans, those of us who've longed for bite-size pizza poppers that taste as good as we remember—chewy, cheesy, salty, and crisp.
WHY IT WORKS
Baking mini bagels on a wire rack prevents their bottoms from browning, keeping them tender and easy to eat.
Lightly toasting the split bagels will prevent them from absorbing the red sauce, which would make them soggy.
Diced pepperoni offers better distribution on the mini pizzas, while also matching the look of real Bagel Bites.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
10-inch skillet, food processor, 3- or 4-quart stainless steel pot, wire rack
NOTES:
Thanks to the keeping qualities of my bagel dough, this recipe is great spread out over the course of a few days. So make the dough and sauce whenever you have a chance, bake off the bagels when it's convenient, then assemble at your leisure.
INGREDIENTS
Homemade Bagel dough
1 ounce barley malt syrup (4 teaspoons; 30g), optional
Quick and Easy Italian-American Red Sauce
Salt, pepper, and fennel seed to taste
12 ounces finely shredded mozzarella cheese (3 cups; 340g)
6 ounces pepperoni, such as Vermont Smoke & Cure (1 link; 170g)
DIRECTIONS
1.
For the Mini Bagels: Prepare dough as directed, then divide into 16 equal portions, about 1 1/2 ounces or 43g each. Cup a portion of dough beneath your palm and work in quick, circular motions to form a tight skin around the ball, with only a tiny seam along the bottom. If the seam is large or irregular, continue rounding until the bottom is nearly smooth. Cover with plastic and let rest 15 minutes. Poke a hole into the center of each portion with a damp fingertip, then gently stretch into a 1 1/2–inch ring, wetting your hands in cold water as needed to prevent sticking. Arrange on a well-greased, parchment-lined half sheet pan, cover with plastic, and refrigerate 24 to 36 hours, depending on your schedule.

2.
To Boil and Bake: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 425°F (218°C). Nest a wire baking rack in a half sheet pan, then cover with parchment. Fill a stainless steel pot with about 3 inches of water, stir in malt (if using), and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, line a baking sheet or cutting board with a thick layer of paper towels. Working with three or four at a time, boil the bagels, about 15 seconds per side. Place on paper towels, then immediately transfer to the prepared half sheet pan. (If left on the paper towels too long, the bagels will stick; if this happens, quickly dip the bagel back into the hot water, and the wet paper towel will peel right off.) Bake until blistered and golden brown all over, about 18 minutes. Cool at least 15 minutes before proceeding to the next step, or store mini bagels up to 36 hours in a paper bag.

3.
To Finish: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 450°F (232°C). Split mini bagels horizontally with a serrated knife, arrange half on a parchment-lined baking sheet, and toast only until their surface is a little dry, about 5 minutes. Top each with a few tablespoons of red sauce, followed by a sprinkle of salt, pepper, and fennel seed, followed by a generous mound of cheese and a small handful of diced pepperoni. Bake until the cheese is melted and golden brown, about 16 minutes, and serve immediately. Repeat with remaining bagel halves for round two.

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Baked Brie en Croûte With Apple and Pear Compote Recipe

Offering maximum impact with minimal effort, a baked Brie turns a mild-mannered cheese into the superhero of a gathering: a warm, gooey communal comfort food. This version wraps the cheese in a shell of flaky puff pastry, along with two sweet-tart layers of apple-pear compote.

WHY IT WORKS
Pairing the creamy cheese with a combination of tart and sweet gives it the ideal flavor balance.
Adding a puff pastry crust is an easy way to create an impressive party appetizer.
Triple-cream cheese gives you the best gooey melt.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Rimmed baking sheet, parchment paper, rolling pin, pastry brush, kitchen twine (optional)
NOTES:
If possible, use a triple-cream Brie, which has a higher fat content that melts better.
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon (15g) unsalted butter
1 apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 pear, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/4 cup (60g) sugar
1 small cinnamon stick (or 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon)
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 (6- to 8-ounce; 170 to 225g) round Brie or Camembert cheese, slightly chilled (see note)
All-purpose flour, for dusting
10-inch square puff pastry dough, kept cold, rolled out to 1/4-inch thickness
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon (15ml) water
DIRECTIONS
1.
Preheat a medium saucepan over medium heat, add butter, and swirl until melted. Add apple and pear and cook, stirring occasionally, until fruit is tender and has released most of its liquid, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in sugar, cinnamon stick or ground cinnamon, ginger, and cardamom and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated, 12 to 15 minutes longer. Discard cinnamon stick, if used. Remove from heat and let compote cool to room temperature.

2.
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

3.
Using a sharp knife, cut cheese in half horizontally (through the middle). Lay one half on a work surface, cut side up, and spread 3 tablespoons (45ml) of compote evenly over it. Place second half on top and spread another 3 tablespoons (45ml) compote over it.

4.
Place puff pastry on a lightly floured work surface and roll to an even 1/4-inch thickness. Set prepared cheese in center of square, fold dough up and over, and pleat it together on top to enclose cheese. Gently pinch dough together in center to seal gathered pleats. You can tie a bit of kitchen twine on top to hold pleats together if you like, but this is not essential. If dough is no longer cold, chill wrapped cheese for at least 20 minutes. (Cheese can be wrapped tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated until ready to bake.)

5.
Set prepared cheese wheel on prepared baking sheet. Brush dough evenly with egg wash. Bake until pastry is crisp and golden brown all over, 25 to 35 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes, then transfer to a platter. Serve any remaining compote alongside.

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Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Chicken Piccata (Fried Chicken Cutlets With Lemon-Butter Pan Sauce) Recipe

Chicken piccata takes a beloved food—pan-fried chicken cutlets—and tops it with a simple but luxurious lemon-butter pan sauce. The result is a flavor and texture festival that blends crispness, juiciness, richness, and tartness all into one.

WHY IT WORKS

Fried chicken cutlets topped with a rich butter sauce.
Japanese panko bread crumbs form a coating that becomes shatteringly crisp but still light and tender, not dense and tough.
The pan sauce whips up quickly after frying, so the cutlets don't have to wait long.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Large skillet
INGREDIENTS
1 cup all-purpose flour (5 ounces; 140g)
3 large eggs, beaten
2 cups panko bread crumbs (4 ounces; 115g), roughly crushed by hand if very large
2 ounces (60g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
8 boneless, skinless chicken cutlets (3 or 4 ounces each), pounded to about 1/4 inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
1/2 cup dry white wine (120ml)
1 1/2 tablespoons drained capers (15g)
5 tablespoons unsalted butter (70g)
2 tablespoons fresh juice from 1 lemon (30ml)
1 1/2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
DIRECTIONS
1.
Set three wide, shallow bowls on a work surface. Add flour to the first one, beaten eggs to the second, and panko and Parmesan cheese to the third. Mix panko and Parmesan thoroughly.

2.
Line a rimmed baking dish with parchment paper. Season chicken cutlets all over with salt and pepper. Working with one at a time, dredge a cutlet in flour with your left hand, shaking off excess. Transfer to egg dish, then turn cutlet with your right hand to coat both sides. Lift and allow excess egg to drain off, then transfer to bread crumb mixture. With your left hand, scoop bread crumbs on top of chicken, then gently press, turning chicken to ensure a good layer of crumbs on both sides. Transfer cutlet to prepared baking sheet and repeat with remaining cutlets.

3.
Fill a large skillet with 1/4 inch oil. Heat over high heat until shimmering and just shy of smoking, about 375°F on an instant-read thermometer.

4.
Working in batches and using tongs or your fingers, gently lower cutlets into the pan, laying them down away from you to prevent hot fat from splashing toward you. Fry, gently swirling pan and rotating cutlets for even browning, and adjusting heat as necessary for a steady, vigorous bubble, until bottom side is browned and crisp, about three minutes. Flip cutlets and fry until other side is browned and crisp, about three minutes longer. Transfer to paper towels to drain and season with salt right away. Repeat with remaining cutlets, topping up oil if necessary.

5.
Drain all but one tablespoon oil from skillet. Add wine and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, cooking until raw alcohol smell has mostly cooked off, about two minutes. Add capers and butter, whisking constantly, until butter has melted. Lower heat to medium and continue whisking and reducing until a creamy, emulsified sauce forms (the time this takes will depend on your burner power and the size of your pan). If sauce over-reduces and breaks at any point, add one tablespoon cold water and whisk to emulsify it again. Whisk in lemon juice and parsley, season with salt and pepper, and remove from heat.

6.
Arrange cutlets on a platter and drizzle warm butter sauce all over. Serve right away.
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Late-Summer Mixed-Fruit Pie Recipe

When mixing things up with a variety of fruits in a pie, you have no better partner in the kitchen than a scale—particularly if you want to experiment beyond the suggestions below. If measuring with cups, stick to the listed ingredients, and take care not to pile the fruit too high. Whether you choose my blend or your own, the filling bakes up sweet-tart and a little jammy under a golden, flaky crust.

WHY IT WORKS
A blend of fruits unites sweet, sour, tender, and creamy elements in a single pie.
Tapioca starch forms a light, clear gel that's never cloudy, slimy, or gloppy.
A 4:1 ratio of fruit to sugar raises tapioca's gelatinization point so the filling and crust will cook at the same rate, meaning you never have to trade a thick filling for a soggy crust!
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
9-inch pie plate (preferably tempered-glass), pastry brush (if using egg wash), rimmed baking sheet, digital thermometer
NOTES:
This recipe works best with fruits similar to those listed below, rather than wildcards such as apples, figs, or melons.

Due to disparate sourcing practices, tapioca starch manufactured in Asia may be derived from plants other than cassava, which have different gelling properties. Look for products that mention cassava by name on the packaging, such as Bob's Red Mill.
INGREDIENTS
3 medium plums, apricots, or nectarines (about 12 ounces; 340g)
9 ounces pitted cherries (1 2/3 heaping cups; 255g), from about 12 ounces whole fruit (2 1/4 heaping cups; 340g)
6 ounces fresh blueberries, blackberries, or raspberries (1 cup; 170g)
4 ounces Cape gooseberries, currants, or fresh cranberries (1/2 cup; 110g)
7 ounces sugar (1 cup; 195g)
1/2 teaspoon (2g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or use the same weight
1 1/2 ounces tapioca starch (1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon; 40g), such as Bob's Red Mill (see note above)
Old-Fashioned Flaky Pie Dough, rolled and chilled as per the directions for a double crust
For the Egg Wash (optional):
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1/2 ounce heavy cream (1 tablespoon; 15g)
1/8 teaspoon (1/2g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or use the same weight
DIRECTIONS
1.
For the Filling: Wash plums (no need to peel), cut into 1/2-inch slices, and measure out 9 ounces (1 1/2 cups; 255g) in a large bowl. Add pitted cherries, blueberries, and Cape gooseberries, or whatever mix of fruit you prefer, to bring the total weight to 28 ounces (790g; volume will vary). Toss with sugar, salt, and tapioca starch, folding with a flexible spatula until well combined. Scrape into prepared pie shell and top with remaining dough, as a solid sheet, a lattice, a herringbone, or checkerboard. Trim away excess dough and refrigerate to ensure top crust is completely chilled, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 400°F.

2.
For the Egg Wash (if using): Whisk egg, egg yolk, cream, and salt in a small bowl. Brush over chilled top crust in a thin, even layer. This will give the crust a glossy, golden sheen, but is not necessary in any way.

3.
Place chilled pie on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake until crust is golden, about 1 hour, then loosely cover with tented foil. (Alternatively, an empty baking sheet can be placed on topmost rack of oven to serve as a shield.) Continue baking until filling is bubbling even in the very center of the pie, about 15 minutes more. If crust completely covers filling, bake until pie reaches an internal temperature of 212°F on a digital thermometer.

4.
To Serve: Cool pie until center of filling is no warmer than 85°F on a digital thermometer, about 3 hours depending on the type of pie plate. (Above that temperature, filling will be runny and thin.) Slice into wedges with a sharp knife, pressing firmly against bottom and sides of pie plate to ensure under-crust is completely cut. Wrapped in foil, leftovers will keep up to 3 days at room temperature; warm 10 minutes in a 350°F oven to revive crust before serving.

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Marbled Dipping Ganache Recipe

The consistency of ganache doesn't just hinge on the ratio of chocolate to cream, but the type of chocolate, too. White and milk chocolates, already rich in both cocoa butter and dairy fat, don't need much cream to reach a smooth and creamy consistency, while lean dark chocolate requires a little more. For a recipe this simple, be sure to choose chocolates you love!

WHY IT WORKS
Bringing the cream to a simmer, rather than a boil, keeps the chocolate smooth and creamy.
Letting the chocolate and cream stand together prevents the chocolate from melting too fast.
Cooling the ganaches improves their consistencies.
NOTES:
To save on cleanup, you can combine the cream for both ganaches in a single pot, then pour the correct amount over each chocolate on a scale. An equal amount of milk chocolate can be used in place of white.
INGREDIENTS
For the Dark Chocolate Ganache:
3 ounces heavy cream (1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon; 85g)
2 ounces dark chocolate, about 72%, roughly chopped (1/3 cup; 55g)
For the White Chocolate Ganache:
2 ounces heavy cream (1/4 cup; 55g)
3 ounces white chocolate, about 35%, roughly chopped (1/2 cup; 85g)
Pinch of salt
DIRECTIONS
1.
For the Dark Chocolate Ganache: In a 1-quart stainless steel saucier, bring the cream to a gentle simmer. When it's bubbling hard around the edges, pour over dark chocolate in a medium bowl. Let stand 30 seconds, then whisk gently to combine. Stand at room temperature until 85°F, about 8 minutes.

2.
For the White Chocolate Ganache: In a 1-quart stainless steel saucier, bring the cream to a gentle simmer. When it's bubbling hard around the edges, pour over white chocolate in a medium bowl. Let stand 30 seconds, then add a pinch of salt and whisk gently to combine. Stand at room temperature until 85°F, about 8 minutes.

3.
To Combine: Pour half the dark ganache into a small serving bowl, followed by half the white ganache. Then pour in half the remaining dark ganache, followed by half the remaining white ganache, then repeat. Swirl together with a toothpick and serve with fresh fruit, pretzels, shortbread cookies, or whatever you're inclined to dunk in chocolate.

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Jack Rose Recipe


A potent mix of applejack, grenadine, and lemon juice flavored with a dash of Peychaud's bitters.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Cocktail shaker, strainer

INGREDIENTS
2 ounces Laird's Applejack
3/4 ounce grenadine, preferably homemade
3/4 ounces fresh squeezed juice from 1 lemon
1 dash Peychaud's bitters
Lemon twist
DIRECTIONS
1.
Combine applejack, grenadine, lemon juice, and bitters in a cocktail shaker. Fill shaker with ice and shake vigorously until well chilled, about 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe or martini glass. Squeeze lemon twist over surface of drink, skin-side-out to release fragrant oils. Rub rim of glass with skin side of lemon twist and discard twist. Serve immediately.
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The Ultimate BLT Sandwich Recipe

A BLT is not a well-dressed bacon sandwich. A BLT is a tomato sandwich, seasoned with bacon. From this basic premise, all else follows. Indeed, a better name for the BLT might well be the Tomato Club, for it is the perfect tomato, not the bacon, that is the rarest, the most ephemeral, the most singularly delicious ingredient. A BLT is not a democracy. It is not a committee meeting. It is a dictatorship, and the tomato is King, Queen, and Supreme Leader. In the BLT universe, the Prime Directive is that all other ingredients shall be at Her Majesty's service, their only role to prop her up and enhance her best qualities.

Here's how I make mine.
WHY IT WORKS
Slow-cooking the bacon renders its fat, while helping it to cook evenly and crisply.
Toasting the bread in bacon fat adds an extra layer of flavor.
Seasoning the tomatoes directly with salt and pepper enhances their flavor.
Shredded iceberg lettuce provides structure, sweetness, and crunch.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Griddle or large skillet, bacon press or masonry trowel
NOTES:
This recipe can easily be scaled up. To cook bacon for a larger crowd, preheat the oven to 400°F. Lay bacon strips on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper, top with a second sheet of parchment paper, and place a second tray on top to keep the bacon flat while baking. Transfer the sandwiched bacon slices to the oven, and bake until well-rendered and crisp, 20 to 25 minutes. Reserve the bacon drippings, and brush onto slices of bread before toasting in the toaster or on a griddle.

I strongly recommend using an immersion-cured bacon, such as Nueske's or Wright bacon, for this sandwich. Many typical supermarket brands inject brine into the bacon for faster curing, which waterlogs it and causes it to spatter more and cook unevenly. To avoid this type of bacon, look for ascorbate or sodium erythorbate on the ingredients label—antioxidants required by law to stem the formation of nitrosamines in injected bacon.

Homemade mayonnaise is easy to make using our technique, but mayonnaise preference is personal, so use whatever your favorite mayonnaise is. I know better than to get between someone and their Duke's. Finely shredded iceberg lettuce is my lettuce of choice, unless you can find super-fresh, young, crisp leaf or romaine lettuce at the farmers market. Use only the best summer tomatoes.
INGREDIENTS
3 strips thick-cut, naturally cured bacon (see note above)
2 slices high-quality sandwich bread, such as shokupan
2 tablespoons (30ml) homemade or store-bought mayonnaise (see note above)
1 1/2 cups finely shredded iceberg lettuce (see note above)
4 thick slices ripe tomato (see note above)
Coarse sea salt, such as fleur de sel or Maldon
Freshly ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS
1.
Place a griddle or skillet over medium-low heat. Add bacon and place a bacon press, skillet, or masonry trowel on top of it to keep it flat as it cooks. Cook until lightly browned on first side, about 5 minutes, then flip, cover again, and continue cooking until bacon is browned on both sides and fat has rendered, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate and set aside.

2.
Place bread on same skillet or griddle and toast in bacon fat over medium-low heat, swirling occasionally, until evenly browned on first side. Flip and brown second side.

3.
Lay toasted bread on a work surface and spread mayonnaise on both top faces. Divide lettuce evenly between both pieces of bread. Layer tomato slices on one piece of bread and sprinkle generously with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper.

4.
Break bacon slices in half and layer them onto the sandwich in 2 layers of 3 half-slices each, alternating the orientation of bacon in each layer for more structural stability. Close sandwich and cut in half diagonally. Serve immediately.
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